Today's weather is a vast improvement on yesterday's. Our guides have told us that we have picked the right time to be here too. In a few weeks the temperatures will be climbing into the 40s. Today's weather was was a far more reasonable mid twenties: scarcely a breeze and no clouds.
Today's morning tour took in two cities: Kusadasi is known for its holiday resorts and shopping for: silk goods, leather, jewellery and carpets, while neighbouring Ephesus is famous for its massive Greco Roman ruins which are being excavated and preserved by archeologists. Approximately 10% has been uncovered and other parts are known to be under a nearby mountain and the relocated bus park (the bus park was originally located over the remains of the two storey library) This ten percent is still larger than what is visible at Pompeii in Italy.
Ephesus once had a population of 250 thousand but now only houses archeologists and tourists. It was once a port but is now 12 km inland. The resulting swampland was perfect for malaria bearing mosquitoes and not so good for its other inhabitants. After several sackings and one too many earthquakes, the city was was finally abandoned in the 15th. Century.
It was fascinating to see how well preserved some of the ruins carvings are and our guide was truly exceptional. Our group was very lucky to have him as he was able to tell us tidbits that made the history come alive eg many of the marble paving stones have divots carved out of them to prevent people slipping on them in wet weather. He also showed us the cryptic sign Christians used between each other in a hostile environment.
We saw a wonderful carving of the goddess Nike in the open air, which is about to be relocated to a museum within a few days. The Grand Theatre nearby has been used recently for concerts by Elton John, Barry Manilow and Sting. The seats are stone, but we gather people sat on cushions.
Leaving the site felt like we were running the gauntlet as we were accosted by people selling us postcards, books, Turkish delight and bookmarks. I couldn't get aboard the bus fast enough as they tried to bargain with me.
Our guide showed us three sites in all. The first was the house where the Virgin Mary is supposed to have spent her last years, which is on the top of a hill in a peaceful garden. It is tended by nuns from Rome and three Popes have visited it in recent years: Popes Paul VI, JP II and Benedict.
The last site was a very tourist oriented place with souvenirs and a mock gladiator battle playing every 20 minutes.
At the end of the morning our guide showed us where we could spend our money at reputable stores in Kusadasi - and I think he steered us right. I bought two lovely items: a pure silk pashmina and a lambskin lined reversible jacket, which I am very happy with.
We ran the gauntlet again going through the market on the way back to the boat. We managed to avoid the worst of it but frankly I wasn't interested in going back out again after lunch. Instead we had a quiet afternoon, admiring the views of the city from our balcony and trying to ignore the Russian music blasting out over a loud speaker. While we were there, two boats arrived bearing political candidates names - and the whole thing turned into a political rally for next month's elections.
As the time for sailing drew closer, we went up to the Looking Glass Lounge, which is as high and as forward as you can go, to join a Trivia competition. It was good fun, the views were great, the drinks were free - and then we won!
Tonight's buffet meal is Turkish, which is apt since this is our last night in Turkish waters.
Today's morning tour took in two cities: Kusadasi is known for its holiday resorts and shopping for: silk goods, leather, jewellery and carpets, while neighbouring Ephesus is famous for its massive Greco Roman ruins which are being excavated and preserved by archeologists. Approximately 10% has been uncovered and other parts are known to be under a nearby mountain and the relocated bus park (the bus park was originally located over the remains of the two storey library) This ten percent is still larger than what is visible at Pompeii in Italy.
Ephesus once had a population of 250 thousand but now only houses archeologists and tourists. It was once a port but is now 12 km inland. The resulting swampland was perfect for malaria bearing mosquitoes and not so good for its other inhabitants. After several sackings and one too many earthquakes, the city was was finally abandoned in the 15th. Century.
It was fascinating to see how well preserved some of the ruins carvings are and our guide was truly exceptional. Our group was very lucky to have him as he was able to tell us tidbits that made the history come alive eg many of the marble paving stones have divots carved out of them to prevent people slipping on them in wet weather. He also showed us the cryptic sign Christians used between each other in a hostile environment.
We saw a wonderful carving of the goddess Nike in the open air, which is about to be relocated to a museum within a few days. The Grand Theatre nearby has been used recently for concerts by Elton John, Barry Manilow and Sting. The seats are stone, but we gather people sat on cushions.
Leaving the site felt like we were running the gauntlet as we were accosted by people selling us postcards, books, Turkish delight and bookmarks. I couldn't get aboard the bus fast enough as they tried to bargain with me.
Our guide showed us three sites in all. The first was the house where the Virgin Mary is supposed to have spent her last years, which is on the top of a hill in a peaceful garden. It is tended by nuns from Rome and three Popes have visited it in recent years: Popes Paul VI, JP II and Benedict.
The last site was a very tourist oriented place with souvenirs and a mock gladiator battle playing every 20 minutes.
At the end of the morning our guide showed us where we could spend our money at reputable stores in Kusadasi - and I think he steered us right. I bought two lovely items: a pure silk pashmina and a lambskin lined reversible jacket, which I am very happy with.
We ran the gauntlet again going through the market on the way back to the boat. We managed to avoid the worst of it but frankly I wasn't interested in going back out again after lunch. Instead we had a quiet afternoon, admiring the views of the city from our balcony and trying to ignore the Russian music blasting out over a loud speaker. While we were there, two boats arrived bearing political candidates names - and the whole thing turned into a political rally for next month's elections.
As the time for sailing drew closer, we went up to the Looking Glass Lounge, which is as high and as forward as you can go, to join a Trivia competition. It was good fun, the views were great, the drinks were free - and then we won!
Tonight's buffet meal is Turkish, which is apt since this is our last night in Turkish waters.
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